OT: cost effective method to cut "old" corrugated roofing?

[Ranger Dan]

I have some old corrugated roofing panels that I am going to re-purpose as wainscotting in my fortress of solitude (I hate calling it a man cave). The panels are 7 or 8 feet long and I need to cut them down to create two sections, so that all of them are the same height and the cuts are square. Using my own sawsall will not give me the needed precision, but I'm not building a watch either.

If this was a 2' by 4' board, I'd use a table saw. I'm not sure whether there are equivalent saws used to cut corrugated sheet metal like this though. I guess I could put a sheet metal blade on a table saw, but I'd have to build some fixture to hold the panel square to the blade while cutting it and it would have to be long enough for the 8 foot panels.

I am also aware of plasma, water jet, and laser equipment that that should do the trick, but they may be relatively expensive considering I just want them cut to a specific length. The other issue is that one side of the metal is pretty well rusted, so I'm not sure if that eliminates one of the aforementioned processes.

What would be the most cost effective method to cut these long panels into smaller ones, keeping the size and cuts square?

 

[spoog44]

If you need a precision cut I would track down a roofer who does metal roofs. You could probably find someone and pay them cash to make one cut.

For a DIY job I would say a sawzall or a grinder with a cutting wheel. It will not be a clean cut but you will need to put a piece of trim over the edges. I also have a pair of pneumatic shears but again it will not be a precision cut.

 

[Ranger Dan]

If you need a precision cut I would track down a roofer who does metal roofs. You could probably find someone and pay them cash to make one cut.

For a DIY job I would say a sawzall or a grinder with a cutting wheel. It will not be a clean cut but you will need to put a piece of trim over the edges. I also have a pair of pneumatic shears but again it will not be a precision cut.

Thanks for the input. The roofer is a good idea, but as I said the sawsall is a non-starter.

 

[sluggo72]

I've been thinking this, I assume you dont want to use your sawzall as you may not be able to control for a straight cut. I assume the you want the 'ridges and the valleys' to run up and down the wall (and not cross ways), so what you are doing is cutting across the 'ridges and the valleys'. I think I would try my sawzall, and take a piece of 1x4 stock and clamp it on both ends where you want it cut. I would use the stock as a guide for the saw. I think with mine I could put the saw on the 1 x4 and run the blade right next to the wood and get it relatively straight. You might have to do a little clean up work with a brush or a grinder when finished. Any irregularities in the cut , I'd hide with my molding I would put across the top of the metal on the wall. Dont butt the metal to the molding, build the molding out from the wall so the metal slips under it.

 

[step.eng69]

What would be the most cost effective method to cut these long panels into smaller ones, keeping the size and cuts square?

i would cut several sheets in one pass and c-clamp a straight edge (piece of 5/4" board) on each side of the sheet to guide the saw in a true line.

 

[PeetzPoolBoy]

Here's all you need:

• A 7-1/4" metal-cutting blade for your circular saw. They usually cost around $30 - $40 for a good one, but Harbor Freight has one for $20. If you read the reviews at the bottom of the following link, you'll see that many others have successfully used this blade for projects identical to yours. https://www.harborfreight.com/7-14-in-48t-metal-cutting-circular-saw-blade-62736.html
• An 8' galvanized metal stud which should cost no more than $6 at Home Depot. Sluggo had a good suggestion with the 1"x4"x 8', but if the wood is bowed or curved, your cuts will be also. The steel stud will be perfectly straight, has a large clamping width, has a nice tall edge for guiding the saw and costs less that a 1" x 4" x 8' piece of wood. I use these frequently for ripping plywood.
• A couple of trigger clamps (or equivalent) for clamping the steel stud to your corrugated metal sheets.

Assuming you already own or can borrow a circular saw, your project should cost no more than $30.

Don't forget to measure, and account for, the distance between the inside edge of the blade and the outside edge of the foot on your circular saw.

 

[step.eng69]

I've been thinking this, I assume you dont want to use your sawzall as you may not be able to control for a straight cut. I assume the you want the 'ridges and the valleys' to run up and down the wall (and not cross ways), so what you are doing is cutting across the 'ridges and the valleys'. I think I would try my sawzall, and take a piece of 1x4 stock and clamp it on both ends where you want it cut. I would use the stock as a guide for the saw. I think with mine I could put the saw on the 1 x4 and run the blade right next to the wood and get it relatively straight. You might have to do a little clean up work with a brush or a grinder when finished. Any irregularities in the cut , I'd hide with my molding I would put across the top of the metal on the wall. Dont butt the metal to the molding, build the molding out from the wall so the metal slips under it.

If you turn the sheet so the this finish surface in down, clamp the guid, the valleys will be inverted and the saw will ride on an even plain, providing the valley depth is less than the blade reveal.

 

[sluggo72]

Here's all you need:

• A 7-1/4" metal-cutting blade for your circular saw. They usually cost around $30 - $40 for a good one, but Harbor Freight has one for $20. If you read the reviews at the bottom of the following link, you'll see that many others have successfully used this blade for projects identical to yours. https://www.harborfreight.com/7-14-in-48t-metal-cutting-circular-saw-blade-62736.html
• An 8' galvanized metal stud which should cost no more than $6 at Home Depot. Sluggo had a good suggestion with the 1"x4"x 8', but if the wood is bowed or curved, your cuts will be also. The steel stud will be perfectly straight, has a large clamping width, has a nice tall edge for guiding the saw and costs less that a 1" x 4" x 8' piece of wood. I use these frequently for ripping plywood.
• A couple of trigger clamps (or equivalent) for clamping the steel stud to your corrugated metal sheets.

Assuming you already own or can borrow a circular saw, your project should cost more than $30.

hey Bub, my wood is always straight and true!!!

 

[Ranger Dan]

I've been thinking this, I assume you dont want to use your sawzall as you may not be able to control for a straight cut. I assume the you want the 'ridges and the valleys' to run up and down the wall (and not cross ways), so what you are doing is cutting across the 'ridges and the valleys'. I think I would try my sawzall, and take a piece of 1x4 stock and clamp it on both ends where you want it cut. I would use the stock as a guide for the saw. I think with mine I could put the saw on the 1 x4 and run the blade right next to the wood and get it relatively straight. You might have to do a little clean up work with a brush or a grinder when finished. Any irregularities in the cut , I'd hide with my molding I would put across the top of the metal on the wall. Dont butt the metal to the molding, build the molding out from the wall so the metal slips under it.

Thanks for the input, but I'm not covering the edges with molding, they are butting flush against molding.

 

[Ranger Dan]

If you turn the sheet so the this finish surface in down, clamp the guid, the valleys will be inverted and the saw will ride on an even plain, providing the valley depth is less than the blade reveal.

Thanks for the suggestion. This certainly would provide a better result than the sawsall. I'm still interested in finding out about the other processing methods (plasma, laser, waterjet).

 

[Whaaaaaaaany]

I'm still interested in finding out about the other processing methods (plasma, laser, waterjet).

Didn't you say "Cost effective"? taking your old rusty two pieces of metal to somebody to do those services is not going to be "cost effective" if you could find somebody to do it. Your volume does not make it cost effective, and it being rusty is going to turn people off as well.

 

[Class of 67]

I've been looking for a few rusted corrugated metal roofing panels for a couple years for a home project. Where did you get yours? I've looked occasionally on Craig's List and keep my eyes open for any out buildings being demolished. I guess it doesn't help that I live in a metro area. I've also thought of used materials businesses but as yet have not paid any visits. Other suggestions welcome.

 

[Ranger Dan]

Didn't you say "Cost effective"? taking your old rusty two pieces of metal to somebody to do those services is not going to be "cost effective" if you could find somebody to do it. Your volume does not make it cost effective, and it being rusty is going to turn people off as well.

I never said what volume I have. I have a dozen or so sheets. I’m looking to see which of the options I mentioned are most cost effective

 

[the rigger]

I never said what volume I have. I have a dozen or so sheets. I’m looking to see which of the options I mentioned are most cost effective

I went on eBay and bought a pair of power shears that fit on the end of a cordless drill and they're only like $29

 

[PeetzPoolBoy]

The best part of this thread is that RangerDan has me on ignore and might not ever see my "most excellent" advice.

 

[ClarkstonMark]

I never said what volume I have. I have a dozen or so sheets. I’m looking to see which of the options I mentioned are most cost effective

Do you have any small tool shops where you live. I would assume there is at least one, but I doubt they would do anything for less than a few hundred dollars ("setup fee" as the time to do the actual job with any method won't be much)
I am not sure a wire edm will be able to do a much better job than a circular saw for an 8' length.

You could also go to your local tool rental shop and tell them what you want to do and ask them what big tool they might have to do the job (they may also know a guy who will do it for you).

If it was me I would do what PPB suggested

 

[The Spin Meister]

Some guys use a plywood blade put in backwards on a circular saw. Use an old one as it will be ruined. A steel studd as a straight edge is good....also adds safety as in would help keep saw from binding and kicking back.

Whatever you use, make sure to use hearing protection as it will be very loud. Maybe double up with foam earplugs and over-the-ear head set. Keep other people far away. If you hate your neighbors, cut it at 6 AM and really piss them off.

Also use eye protection as metal bits may...will fly off.

 

[Ranger Dan]

I've been looking for a few rusted corrugated metal roofing panels for a couple years for a home project. Where did you get yours? I've looked occasionally on Craig's List and keep my eyes open for any out buildings being demolished. I guess it doesn't help that I live in a metro area. I've also thought of used materials businesses but as yet have not paid any visits. Other suggestions welcome.

I put an ad in craigslist and got no responses. I put an ad in the Lancaster Farmer newspaper and had two hits. One guy was a farmer who had an old rusty roof that he was replacing on an outbuilding. When I saw it, it was more rusted than I wanted, but the underside is workable. The second guy was more of a pro remodeled type who was asking too much for the panels.

 

[meanmiJ01]

With a circular saw make sure pants and long sleeves unless you want tiny burn marks all over.

 

[hereforthebeer]

i would cut several sheets in one pass and c-clamp a straight edge (piece of 5/4" board) on each side of the sheet to guide the saw in a true line.

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This is the answer. Get the right circular saw blade, clamp your guide straight, and run the cut. I cut four sheets right on the tailgate of my truck last weekend. Have cut roofing this way many times. You don't need a damn plasma torch to cut roofing. End the search.

 

[step.eng69]

Whatever you use, make sure to use hearing protection as it will be very loud. Maybe double up with foam earplugs and over-the-ear head set.

Too late for me........yep, not a joke. My hearing loss is due to chain saws, industrial noise, heavy equipment & shooting guns.

hearing-loss-clinic-in-kolkata

 

[RLCookie]

I was just looking on CL. There is a heavy sheet metal break for sale in Hellam for $50.

Here’s the number:

Clete and slide break.Call 7one7 676 8316.

 

[step.eng69]

I was just looking on CL. There is a heavy sheet metal break for sale in Hellam for $50.

Here’s the number:

Clete and slide break.Call 7one7 676 8316.

Wouldn't a break damage the valleys of the roofing?

 

[Ranger Dan]

I was just looking on CL. There is a heavy sheet metal break for sale in Hellam for $50.

Here’s the number:

Clete and slide break.Call 7one7 676 8316.

This won't work for this specific project, but that sounds like a pretty good deal. I may have to see if I can make room in my workshop for something I want but may never use... LOL

 

[Ranger Dan]

Wouldn't a break damage the valleys of the roofing?

Yes, it won't work for my corrugated project.