OT: Obliviax and other Clevelanders (not sports related)

[wbcincy]

I made the call to leave my current position and go private sector with a firm in downtown Cleveland. I start there Monday. I'll be staying with a friend in Avon Lake the first week while I look for an apartment. I'm hoping to stay within easy driving or walking distance of downtown until we buy a house next summer.

I've only ever been to Cleveland twice, and it was for my two interviews during this process. So just hoping for some general thoughts on things to do, places to live, etc. I'm thinking I want to be west or south side to be closer to visiting family in Cincinnati, and to stay out of the snow belt. Schools are important and I can travel up to 35-40 mins to commute.

 

[kgilbert78]

My youngest niece goes to Avon Lake HS and her brother and sister graduated from there..... Decent school--my eldest niece is a soph at Rochester Institute of Technology. It's west side--they get snow but not like on the east side. Lots of new housing. OK drive on I-90 in town--but I've only made it a few times (usually for a Tribe game). There's a connection to the Rapid (light rail) not too far down I-90.

 

[Locolion]

I made the call to leave my current position and go private sector with a firm in downtown Cleveland. I start there Monday. I'll be staying with a friend in Avon Lake the first week while I look for an apartment. I'm hoping to stay within easy driving or walking distance of downtown until we buy a house next summer.

I've only ever been to Cleveland twice, and it was for my two interviews during this process. So just hoping for some general thoughts on things to do, places to live, etc. I'm thinking I want to be west or south side to be closer to visiting family in Cincinnati, and to stay out of the snow belt. Schools are important and I can travel up to 35-40 mins to commute.

I just moved back to CLE after 16 yrs in NYC. You will be pleasantly surprised - fun town. No better place to be from mid April to Oct 31. A lil rough in winter. West side is great. Nice towns like Rocky River, Olmsted Falls, Bay Village, Westlake, Avon Lake There are great restaurants, breweries. Sports crazy town. Peoole are really nice. Going up to Marblehead and Baypoint and Kellys Island in summer (boating etc) is great. Kids love Cedar Point. Local ice cream shop called Mitchells is fantastic and they are Penn State grads/trained. Super park system called the Metro parks is unparalled. I am super happy to be back. Man, I could go on and on about all the good things to do. Unique, cool place. Sucks ur moving in during the yucky period but worth it.

 

[Zenophile]

I made the call to leave my current position and go private sector with a firm in downtown Cleveland. I start there Monday. I'll be staying with a friend in Avon Lake the first week while I look for an apartment. I'm hoping to stay within easy driving or walking distance of downtown until we buy a house next summer.

I've only ever been to Cleveland twice, and it was for my two interviews during this process. So just hoping for some general thoughts on things to do, places to live, etc. I'm thinking I want to be west or south side to be closer to visiting family in Cincinnati, and to stay out of the snow belt. Schools are important and I can travel up to 35-40 mins to commute.

I've got nothing to offer but my congratulations. Best of luck in the new gig.

 

[kgilbert78]

And don't forget all the wineries* up that way.



*Full disclosure, my BIL runs one in Avon Lake

 

[LionJim]

I'll let the more experienced posters go into detail, but I will say that at the very least Cleveland is a wonderful place to visit.

 

[wbcincy]

And don't forget all the wineries* up that way.



*Full disclosure, my BIL runs one in Avon Lake

Since I'm going to be in Avon Lake all of next week and frequently going forward, you mind sharing the name?

 

[john4psu]

Congratulations wb. Temporarily until you become wbcleve? you may consider using wbtitletown.

 

[Obliviax]

Good for you!

I live in Bay Village and love it. The three areas in west Cuyahoga county are all very nice: Bay, Rocky River and Westlake. They are all 15 to 30 minutes from downtown, depending upon traffic (and no snow or accidents!).

RR has the best public schools in the area, probably in the state but home prices are nuts. (and I mean nuts, probably twice the price as Bay). They also have a great pool and workout club that is very inexpensive for RR residents. They also come to your house to pick up the trash, way cool. They have a great park on the lake named Rocky River Park.

Bay is a very nice, sleepy place. Lots of nice modularity priced home with a school system typically placed in the top 20 in the state. It is, rumor has it, the highest rate of FBI agents and engineers in the country (engineers are from NASA). It hugs the lake, like RR, and has a lot of really great state parks. Go check one out at the flashing yellow light at the corner of Lake and Columbia Road. There is a little creek that flows into the lake. If you have to convince a wife or kids, take them to these parks and it will be all over. IMHO, much nicer than Cincy. Bay also has a nice pool but the area was donated by nuns that stipulated it would be closed on Sundays so that is a challenge.

Westlake is more "midwestern" and off the lake. There are some nice developments with some around golf courses, if that is your thing. Its a bit of a larger community. Westlake will be more "columbus-ish" or "Cincy-ish" since it isn't on the lake.

Avon and Avon Lake are nice but its in Lorain County and the culture is a slight change there. You can get more bang for the buck. Nice schools, especially avon lake. Much lower property taxes, though, and like every other big city, the fastest growing big box area because it is on the interstate outside the home county (lower sales taxes). But this is now getting out there as far as recruits going to and from the city.

Should you decide to live downtown there are hundreds of options in the city. And if not for the fact I live on the lake, I'd move there too. (little concerned about riots killing property value one day though). Ohio City is probably the "cool place" to live right now. Lots of good places to eat and condos popping up. Downtown there are dozens of lofts popping up. Just go to realtor.com and look downtown. Lots of energy downtown right now.

This one is just under $600k but the building has lots of places for ~ $300k.

If you are looking for the condo thingy, a place at Crocker Park could be cool. Crocker Park is one of those new "outdoor malls" with high end eateries and stores. Above the stores are condos. If you are an empty nester, that could be cool and fun.

Either way, drop me a line when you get settled and lets go to "around the corner" and have a pop and some wings. This week should be fun if the Tribe can close it out.

 

[kjb32812]

How old are you and where are you in life? I moved here in 2001 and got an apartment on the lake downtown until I could figure out where I wanted to live. Office was in Independence at the time and looked at the West side originally...Rocky River. Office moved to Beachwood so glad I didn't buy there. Buddy lives in Avon Lake and another grew up there. Other guys in here pretty much nailed the W side with Rocky River, Bay, Westlake and Avon Lake. Unless you're going to Cincy frequently then I wouldn't base your decision on E vs. W on that. Central (right down 77) you have Broadview and Brecksville which are both nice. On the East side there are lots of nice areas that allow you to utilize the Green Line and be close to the city but you have to be cognizant of the schools - Shaker, etc. Beachwood has good schools. Pepper Pike, Gates Mills, Moreland Hills, Hunting Valley and Orange. Solon a little further out. Far east you have Kirtland which is small but just across 90 from the busyness and amenities that Mentor has to offer.

Head a little South and you have Chagrin Falls, Aurora and finally Hudson. Hudson is not an easy commute to downtown but I know plenty of people who do it.

If you get an apartment, I would do so downtown. Rent is comparatively cheap because downtown Cleveland is pretty docile during weekday evenings. Gateway, Theatre and Warehouse are the three big districts. I would suggest Warehouse but you'd have a little longer walk to work than the others most likely.

Unlike the poster above, I wouldn't touch Ohio City. They've been trying to turn it for over 20 years. One block is great and the other is seedy. Also no chance you would send your kids to public there. Live across the bridge.

As an FYI, if you look at buying anywhere downtown, be sure you know the tax abatement schedule. Landmark bought all those apartment buildings on a 15Y and now the market is flooded. Same with Grand Arcade (but those were always for sale). Just be aware of the abatements for both condos and apartments as it matters. I looked at buying down there last year solely for a VRBO rental.

Good Luck - great people, great city.

 

[Obliviax]

How old are you and where are you in life? I moved here in 2001 and got an apartment on the lake downtown until I could figure out where I wanted to live. Office was in Independence at the time and looked at the West side originally...Rocky River. Office moved to Beachwood so glad I didn't buy there. Buddy lives in Avon Lake and another grew up there. Other guys in here pretty much nailed the W side with Rocky River, Bay, Westlake and Avon Lake. Unless you're going to Cincy frequently then I wouldn't base your decision on E vs. W on that. Central (right down 77) you have Broadview and Brecksville which are both nice. On the East side there are lots of nice areas that allow you to utilize the Green Line and be close to the city but you have to be cognizant of the schools - Shaker, etc. Beachwood has good schools. Pepper Pike, Gates Mills, Moreland Hills, Hunting Valley and Orange. Solon a little further out. Far east you have Kirtland which is small but just across 90 from the busyness and amenities that Mentor has to offer.

Head a little South and you have Chagrin Falls, Aurora and finally Hudson. Hudson is not an easy commute to downtown but I know plenty of people who do it.

If you get an apartment, I would do so downtown. Rent is comparatively cheap because downtown Cleveland is pretty docile during weekday evenings. Gateway, Theatre and Warehouse are the three big districts. I would suggest Warehouse but you'd have a little longer walk to work than the others most likely.

Unlike the poster above, I wouldn't touch Ohio City. They've been trying to turn it for over 20 years. One block is great and the other is seedy. Also no chance you would send your kids to public there. Live across the bridge.

As an FYI, if you look at buying anywhere downtown, be sure you know the tax abatement schedule. Landmark bought all those apartment buildings on a 15Y and now the market is flooded. Same with Grand Arcade (but those were always for sale). Just be aware of the abatements for both condos and apartments as it matters. I looked at buying down there last year solely for a VRBO rental.

Good Luck - great people, great city.

Excellent post and accurate. I can't stand public transportation so didn't go there. Ohio City is, as you say, edgy, but that is the charm if you aren't worried about kids. And the East side has great locations. The East side is much more "northeastern" in culture whereas the West side is more "Midwest". If you like the Philly vibe, places like Chargrin Falls and Shaker are good options. If you like Cincy, you'll like the west side better.

A lot depends on where you are in life. No kids? I'd love to live downtown. Especially if the Tribe wins, the next 12 to 18 months (or more) will be magic.

 

[kgilbert78]

Since I'm going to be in Avon Lake all of next week and frequently going forward, you mind sharing the name?

Klingshirn. It's not very fancy, partly because it is a real working winery (3rd generation). But they are getting closed in by heavy development, so it's hard to say how much longer they will be able to be there. The city wants more housing and industry and less ag--more tax dollars that way.

 

[CF LION]

Not sure if Hudson is too far (it likely is), but my sister lives there and loves it. It is a quaint town, and supposedly the public school system there is one of the highest rated in Ohio.

I've only ever been to Cleveland once, and it was for business so I flew into Hopkins and drove in. Never driven into the city from Hudson so I can't tell you what that would be like.

 

[kjb32812]

Excellent post and accurate. I can't stand public transportation so didn't go there. Ohio City is, as you say, edgy, but that is the charm if you aren't worried about kids. And the East side has great locations. The East side is much more "northeastern" in culture whereas the West side is more "Midwest". If you like the Philly vibe, places like Chargrin Falls and Shaker are good options. If you like Cincy, you'll like the west side better.

A lot depends on where you are in life. No kids? I'd love to live downtown. Especially if the Tribe wins, the next 12 to 18 months (or more) will be magic.

No kids and I would consider living downtown as well. The only inconveniences IMO are covered parking and getting groceries but you can hop over the bridge and go to Daves if desperate.

Not sure if Hudson is too far (it likely is), but my sister lives there and loves it. It is a quaint town, and supposedly the public school system there is one of the highest rated in Ohio.

I've only ever been to Cleveland once, and it was for business so I flew into Hopkins and drove in. Never driven into the city from Hudson so I can't tell you what that would be like.

Hudson is generally the #1 school system in Northeast Ohio and top five in the state. It is also usually ranked right around #250 (top decile) in the U.S.

Depending on where you live in Hudson, the drive downtown is going to be between 30-40 minutes with normal traffic. Most people in Hudson will elect to take the Turnpike and then take 77N into the city. There is never any congestion on the Turnpike.

An added benefit of living in Hudson is that you are only 20 minutes from downtown Akron. In addition, you are only 1 1/2 from downtown Pittsburgh. State College is a straight shot across 80 - three hours. The disadvantage is that it is far removed from the city but taxes are very high (comparatively). Then again, that's also part of why people love it.

 

[wbcincy]

Great stuff here guys, thank you!

While looking for an apartment for the next 7 months, I'm essentially willing to live anywhere. I'd like to live downtown and be able to walk to work, but if it's a significant savings, I'll drive a little.

Once the 4 year old, dogs and wife move up here permanently next spring/summer, school districts and some yard will become the priorities. From what you all have said, it's sounding like Avon, Avon Lake, Bay Village, Brecksville, Hudson, and Westlake will best fit our needs and budget.

As I said, I've only been to Cleveland twice, for my interviews. But I was surprised how nice it was downtown, the Playhouse square area, etc. The wife was looking at the Metroparks and was excited about those. Looks to be a great food and brewery scene as well. Not sure why the place gets a bad rap, other than people just perpetuating old stereotypes.

 

[kjb32812]

Great stuff here guys, thank you!

While looking for an apartment for the next 7 months, I'm essentially willing to live anywhere. I'd like to live downtown and be able to walk to work, but if it's a significant savings, I'll drive a little.

Once the 4 year old, dogs and wife move up here permanently next spring/summer, school districts and some yard will become the priorities. From what you all have said, it's sounding like Avon, Avon Lake, Bay Village, Brecksville, Hudson, and Westlake will best fit our needs and budget.

As I said, I've only been to Cleveland twice, for my interviews. But I was surprised how nice it was downtown, the Playhouse square area, etc. The wife was looking at the Metroparks and was excited about those. Looks to be a great food and brewery scene as well. Not sure why the place gets a bad rap, other than people just perpetuating old stereotypes.

A lot of people who bag on Cleveland have never been. It's extremely affordable, has three professional sports teams, a lake, very nice suburbs and top notch schools. That being said, what makes Cleveland is the people. It is a Midwest city and the people couldn't be more Midwest. Oh yeah, the weather is gray but there isn't that much snow unless you are out in the snow belt. CLE only gets about 65% of what Erie does.

Even if you sign a short term lease, live downtown. It is a very livable city and evening stops at Winking Lizard, City Tap, Tremont Tap House, Panini's or a CAVS game will allow you to strike up a casual conversation with locals and get a feel for the city.

You're more than welcome to hit me up via PM or with a tag when here if you would like.

BTW, it is a very underrated foodie city. In addition, few states offer a better craft beer scene. Some names for you:

• Great Lakes - Ohio City...pretty well known.
• Brew Kettle - Strongsville. #1 blind taste test IPA - White Rajah. Black Rajah is a very, very good Black IPA.
• Fat Heads - North Olmsted. If you've been to Pittsburgh, you know it. Probably one of the most underrated breweries in the U.S. Headhunter, Trail Head, Sunshine Daydream, Hop JuJu, IBUsive - just fantastic offerings.
• Hoppin' Frog - Akron. Best known for Boris.
• Thirsty Dog - Akron. Not a fan but many are.

If you end up downtown, go to Flipside for great burgers and craft beer.

Looking to sample? Giant Eagle has a great selection or you can go to Lizardville - fantastic staff and they will get cases of all the hard to get stuff (Hopslam, etc.)

Hit me up.

 

[kgilbert78]

Get a zoo membership too, since you have a little one. It's a pretty good one. You get half off at other AZA (zoo association) zoos too.

 

[wbcincy]

A lot of people who bag on Cleveland have never been. It's extremely affordable, has three professional sports teams, a lake, very nice suburbs and top notch schools. That being said, what makes Cleveland is the people. It is a Midwest city and the people couldn't be more Midwest. Oh yeah, the weather is gray but there isn't that much snow unless you are out in the snow belt. CLE only gets about 65% of what Erie does.

Even if you sign a short term lease, live downtown. It is a very livable city and evening stops at Winking Lizard, City Tap, Tremont Tap House, Panini's or a CAVS game will allow you to strike up a casual conversation with locals and get a feel for the city.

You're more than welcome to hit me up via PM or with a tag when here if you would like.

BTW, it is a very underrated foodie city. In addition, few states offer a better craft beer scene. Some names for you:

• Great Lakes - Ohio City...pretty well known.
• Brew Kettle - Strongsville. #1 blind taste test IPA - White Rajah. Black Rajah is a very, very good Black IPA.
• Fat Heads - North Olmsted. If you've been to Pittsburgh, you know it. Probably one of the most underrated breweries in the U.S. Headhunter, Trail Head, Sunshine Daydream, Hop JuJu, IBUsive - just fantastic offerings.
• Hoppin' Frog - Akron. Best known for Boris.
• Thirsty Dog - Akron. Not a fan but many are.

If you end up downtown, go to Flipside for great burgers and craft beer.

Looking to sample? Giant Eagle has a great selection or you can go to Lizardville - fantastic staff and they will get cases of all the hard to get stuff (Hopslam, etc.)

Hit me up.

I didn't realize Brew Kettle was a Cleveland brewery, I love their IPAs. I am very familiar with Fat Heads in South Side, always thought it was a Pittsburgh brewery though.

Looking forward to trying out some food spots downtown like Lola, Greenhouse Tavern, Mabels, etc. Apparently I'm being taken to Urban Farmer the first day I'm there.

 

[kjb32812]

I didn't realize Brew Kettle was a Cleveland brewery, I love their IPAs. I am very familiar with Fat Heads in South Side, always thought it was a Pittsburgh brewery though.

Looking forward to trying out some food spots downtown like Lola, Greenhouse Tavern, Mabels, etc. Apparently I'm being taken to Urban Farmer the first day I'm there.

Don't forget Melt.

 

[Obliviax]

Don't forget Melt.

And don't forget any Michael Symon restaurant. His newest place is down on 4th street: Mabel's BBQ.

 

[LionJim]

Get a zoo membership too, since you have a little one. It's a pretty good one. You get half off at other AZA (zoo association) zoos too.

"Pretty good?" It's superb.

 

[wbcincy]

Klingshirn. It's not very fancy, partly because it is a real working winery (3rd generation). But they are getting closed in by heavy development, so it's hard to say how much longer they will be able to be there. The city wants more housing and industry and less ag--more tax dollars that way.

I'm staying at my friend's place this week (my first here), and it turns out Klingshirn is about a par 5 from where I am. We were coming down the road to his place from the opposite direction we normally would, and was surprised to see Klingshirn just before our turn. Mentioned it to my friend and he said he thinks that family used to own (or still does?) the land where his condo/apartment is. I'm going to stop in tomorrow I'm hoping to grab a bottle or two.

And don't forget any Michael Symon restaurant. His newest place is down on 4th street: Mabel's BBQ.

I had the brisket sandwich at Mabel's yesterday, and it was fantastic. Made me ashamed of the brisket I smoked this summer. The key lime pudding was also great (though twice as large as I would've liked).

I'm being taken to Lola's tomorrow, looking forward to that.

As far as finding an apartment, it turns out downtown is borderline impossible. They're at 97% occupancy downtown, so no one is interested in giving me a short term lease. Leaves my options in the suburbs. I then need a place thats relatively nice, but allows my wife, son, and pair of german shepherds to come spend weekends on occassion. So I may just go ahead and get a place out here in Avon Lake while I wait to buy. Not what I was hoping for, but may be the best option.

 

[Obliviax]

I'm staying at my friend's place this week (my first here), and it turns out Klingshirn is about a par 5 from where I am. We were coming down the road to his place from the opposite direction we normally would, and was surprised to see Klingshirn just before our turn. Mentioned it to my friend and he said he thinks that family used to own (or still does?) the land where his condo/apartment is. I'm going to stop in tomorrow I'm hoping to grab a bottle or two.



I had the brisket sandwich at Mabel's yesterday, and it was fantastic. Made me ashamed of the brisket I smoked this summer. The key lime pudding was also great (though twice as large as I would've liked).

I'm being taken to Lola's tomorrow, looking forward to that.

As far as finding an apartment, it turns out downtown is borderline impossible. They're at 97% occupancy downtown, so no one is interested in giving me a short term lease. Leaves my options in the suburbs. I then need a place thats relatively nice, but allows my wife, son, and pair of german shepherds to come spend weekends on occassion. So I may just go ahead and get a place out here in Avon Lake while I wait to buy. Not what I was hoping for, but may be the best option.

Rental market, right now, is tough. We rented out a nice house in October and got top dollar. At one point, we had six families asking for it.

When things settle down, let me know. perhaps we can grab some wings after Thanksgiving.

 

[kgilbert78]

I'm staying at my friend's place this week (my first here), and it turns out Klingshirn is about a par 5 from where I am. We were coming down the road to his place from the opposite direction we normally would, and was surprised to see Klingshirn just before our turn. Mentioned it to my friend and he said he thinks that family used to own (or still does?) the land where his condo/apartment is. I'm going to stop in tomorrow I'm hoping to grab a bottle or two.

They used to farm some of it--but they didn't own it. They are slowly getting squeezed out. The city wants tax revenues from business and housing--farm land doesn't generate much revenue. The other vineyard in town has a couple of rows for show but gets their grapes elsewhere.