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Just saw Free Solo - Doc on Alex Honnold

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Didn't hear that either but there were clips of him practicing several moves while roped in that were shot over a couple of years time. And just about every hand holds he used was covered with chalk meaning they have been used by him and others for years.

He used well known pathways and hand holds. Practiced them a lot. But doing it freestyle with zero margin of error is completely different. An amazing feat.

I can easily walk along a 2x4 a foot off the ground. Put it five feet in the air and it gets tougher. Put it ten feat in the air and its all most impossible for me. Making that climb freestyle is near impossible...and he made it look relatively easy.


Four hours of amazingly choreographed movement. Incredible. Stunningly incredible.

Re: the 2x4 reference, I watched OU and UCLA Women’s gymnastics over the weekend. They are ranked #1 & #2 in the country. The Balance Beam routines were pretty damn good. Bare feet, front flips, back flips, combination moves. Just one fall among the ten contestants. I’d need a ladder just to get up and on the damn device!
 
ras,
I recently started climbing at a local gym. I’m looking for something to replace basketball as I am getting to old to play full court and want a full body workout with less impact. Do you feel it’s a good workout on it’s own or do you do some other workout in addition?

Thanks!

You probably will not get as much cardio but core, upper body, Hand strength through the roof.

Climbing plus elliptical, swimming or bike may give you more of a balanced workout for us guys getting up in age. I cannot play full court anymore but I swim and lift 2 -4 times a week depending on work schedule.

I have not done any climbing, but I've been studying nutrition, exercise and weight loss for the last 6 years (was 220 then, now about 170 and holding).

You do not want to do cardio in the typical way most go about it. You don't want to keep your heart rate above 120 (or so) for an extended period of time. If swimming is an option, I suggest swimming laps, but just one lap at a time. Do a lap, rest, then do another lap, rest, etc.

If possible, you should lift weights using heavy compound lifts. Takes 30-45 minutes. Squats, Bench Press, Rows one day, Squats, Overhead press and deadlift the next day (with a rest day in between).

As I mentioned, I've not done any climbing, but I could certainly see how it would be great exercise -- either on off days or maybe even replacing some lifting days.
 
I thought Alex cane off as a bit of a self absorbed jerk. I hope his girlfriend gets out of that relationship and finds a real man.
As I noted, he’s most likely on the Autism Spectrum - likely Asbergers. One trait they have (and it’s a spectrum disorder so everyone is differently impacted) is difficulty in navigating social situations and interacting with others in a “normal” way - hence friends calling him “Spock”. STEM fields are filled with Aspies and the like who are far more comfortable with computers than people. Doesn’t make him less of a man. He’s a great guy by all accounts.

In sum, don’t be a nitwit
 
As I noted, he’s most likely on the Autism Spectrum - likely Asbergers. One trait they have (and it’s a spectrum disorder so everyone is differently impacted) is difficulty in navigating social situations and interacting with others in a “normal” way - hence friends calling him “Spock”. STEM fields are filled with Aspies and the like who are far more comfortable with computers than people. Doesn’t make him less of a man. He’s a great guy by all accounts.

In sum, don’t be a nitwit
His MRI showed a high tolerance for stress..or was it a lack of emotional response. Is that true of all or most autistic people? Have they done MRI studies on them?
 
Watched it as well and was spellbound the last portion of the documentary.

Regarding Aspergers Bloomberg did a long interview with Bill Gross, the Bond King for years at Pimco and later Janus. He found out in his 70s that he has Aspergers and mentioned Bill Gates does as well.
 
His MRI showed a high tolerance for stress..or was it a lack of emotional response. Is that true of all or most autistic people? Have they done MRI studies on them?
I don’t think there’s been a mass study, but wouldn’t surprise me. As for one of the classic signs of Autism, lack of eye contact is a biggie. For “normal” humans, this is a very off-putting trait as we interpret this as demonstrating that they can’t be trusted since they don’t like to “look me in the eye”.

In Michael Lewis’s book, the Big Short, there was a fascinating look at a guy with Aspergers who didn’t even know he had it. He cracked the inevitable downfall of the housing market - and made his fortune - by reading SEC filings from start to end. To almost everyone else, they’d want to kill them themselves by page 20, but he reveled in the details.

As a father of 2 boys with autism, I can spot the telltale signs of someone on the spectrum from figuratively 1000 miles away or by just reading a short personality sketch.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michael_Burry
 
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If you liked this documentary, another great one is Valley Uprising. It covers the entire history of climbing in Yosemite and features Hannold towards the end.

If you enjoy outdoorsy/athletic feats, make sure you watch Barkley Marathons.

Or if water is more your thing, Riding Giants.
 
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Watched it as well and was spellbound the last portion of the documentary.

Regarding Aspergers Bloomberg did a long interview with Bill Gross, the Bond King for years at Pimco and later Janus. He found out in his 70s that he has Aspergers and mentioned Bill Gates does as well.
Not surprising. These people may never be prom kings or presidents of their Fraternity, but many become massive successes in fields where insane attention to detail and ability to hyperfocus is rewarded.

I’m sure Gross could spot patterns in the Bond market that others couldn’t.

The brain is a fascinating thing.
 
I agree with what PSU Soupy said.. If weight loss is a goal, I don't think that you will be losing much weight, since you won't be getting the cardio workout... But, there are some routes that are very challenging that you will be breathing pretty hard after you finish it.

It's an excellent forearm/upperbody/core workout, but if overall health is the goal, you may want to supplement it with elliptical/swimming (don't have the impact on the knees). I'm training for a marathon now, but I know that someday, I'll most likely need to switch to an elliptical, just because the beating my knees take from running.
Not sure about that. Have you ever seen a mountain climber that's even a little overweight?
 
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Lots of guys in the climbing community that are on the spectrum. Lots of former military with PTSD too. That was how I got into it. After my 3rd deployment, I started to realize that normal everyday things that used to be enjoyable, no longer were enough to make me happy. Too many years of constant adrenaline, then barely any. I saw guys go one if two ways, drugs/alcohol or doing crazy shit to make up for it. I went the crazy route. I had done the Mountain Warfare training center so I had some background. I took a few months f leave and hit the mountains hard. Very diverse and welcoming community. I didnt pay for a hotel or food after the first two days. I met what now makes up my family and inner circle that first month. Totally changed my life.

The things this guy is doing in the doc are beyond remarkable. I do a little free climbing. I'm talking easy stuff , 15-20 minute climbs. I get nervous doing the big climbs when tied in. Hes out of his mind doing CAP with no gear. Unfortunately, if he keeps doing it , we'll read about him falling eventually. It's not if its when.
 
As much money as we spend on the finding the next “new frontier” be it in space, sea, or today’s revelation that a group of billionaires like Bezos, Gates and Bloomberg have pitched in to map the earth for cobalt deposits, the brain is probably the frontier least understood and best to give us payback.
 
Not sure about that. Have you ever seen a mountain climber that's even a little overweight?

You have a point, but to even get started with the simplest routes, you are really going to struggle if you have a lot of extra body weight to bring up a wall. I think most people that seriously get into it aren’t overweight to begin with. I’m sure there are some exceptions, but I think that is generally the rule.

A bunch of kids climb at the local gym, it’s incredible some of the routes they can do, mainly because they don’t have the body weight to pull up the wall
 
I moved out west, in large part to be closer to better climbing. I've done Denali a few times and do technical and free climbing 4 or 5 times a week. When I watch documentaries about Everest etc , it looks worse that it really is. Having been in similar situations, I feel like I know what the folks in the doc are going through.

This was different. I've climbed EL CAP with riggings. Its scary as hell even when you know you cant fall. This is way worse than it even looked in the doc. That guy is insane. I'm glad he made it. I'm not sure how that film crew could have lived with themselves if he fell. In the world of climbing , this is like batting .750 on the season in MLB.

I would say more like batting 1.000
 
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As I noted, he’s most likely on the Autism Spectrum - likely Asbergers. One trait they have (and it’s a spectrum disorder so everyone is differently impacted) is difficulty in navigating social situations and interacting with others in a “normal” way - hence friends calling him “Spock”. STEM fields are filled with Aspies and the like who are far more comfortable with computers than people. Doesn’t make him less of a man. He’s a great guy by all accounts.

In sum, don’t be a nitwit
I’ll defer to your judgement about his Asbergers traits. But for whatever the cause, he doesn’t strike me as someone who would make a loving spouse as the symptoms seem to get in the way of a two way rewarding emotional relationship. It would take a very understanding partner to be able to overlook the symptoms and accept him the way he seems to be.

I wonder what happens to him when he gets too old to climb? What becomes his substitute thrill? Can someone with his inordinate ability transition into a more normal life?
 
Lots of guys in the climbing community that are on the spectrum. Lots of former military with PTSD too. That was how I got into it. After my 3rd deployment, I started to realize that normal everyday things that used to be enjoyable, no longer were enough to make me happy. Too many years of constant adrenaline, then barely any. I saw guys go one if two ways, drugs/alcohol or doing crazy shit to make up for it. I went the crazy route. I had done the Mountain Warfare training center so I had some background. I took a few months f leave and hit the mountains hard. Very diverse and welcoming community. I didnt pay for a hotel or food after the first two days. I met what now makes up my family and inner circle that first month. Totally changed my life.

The things this guy is doing in the doc are beyond remarkable. I do a little free climbing. I'm talking easy stuff , 15-20 minute climbs. I get nervous doing the big climbs when tied in. Hes out of his mind doing CAP with no gear. Unfortunately, if he keeps doing it , we'll read about him falling eventually. It's not if its when.
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Very glad you found something that really helps with the PTSD. And a great group pf friends.

And especially...thanks for your service!
 
I’ll defer to your judgement about his Asbergers traits. But for whatever the cause, he doesn’t strike me as someone who would make a loving spouse as the symptoms seem to get in the way of a two way rewarding emotional relationship. It would take a very understanding partner to be able to overlook the symptoms and accept him the way he seems to be.

I wonder what happens to him when he gets too old to climb? What becomes his substitute thrill? Can someone with his inordinate ability transition into a more normal life?

The truth is that he probably won't live long enough to be too old to climb -- too dead, yes. A lot of guys climb hard routes well into their 50s. A lot of them transition into mountaineering. The guy who taught me to climb still climbs a lot in his 50s, but has also done the tallest peaks on every continent, including Everest.
 
I’ll defer to your judgement about his Asbergers traits. But for whatever the cause, he doesn’t strike me as someone who would make a loving spouse as the symptoms seem to get in the way of a two way rewarding emotional relationship. It would take a very understanding partner to be able to overlook the symptoms and accept him the way he seems to be.

I wonder what happens to him when he gets too old to climb? What becomes his substitute thrill? Can someone with his inordinate ability transition into a more normal life?
Oh I totally agree with you as to his relationship prospects. During the film, it’s clear she may not be able to accept him as is. I thought their exchanges were hilarious - bubbly sorority girl and gifted misfit and societal outlier.

The story he told about his family never showing affection and never hugging was very illuminating and certainly sad. Honnold saying he forced himself to learn how to hug at age 23 was hilarious.
 
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I wonder what happens to him when he gets too old to climb?

If he continues to free solo he may live a short life, but otherwise I'm sure he'll be a Fred Beckey type and will always climb - even into his 90s if he makes it that long. Aside from his climbing, he lives a very healthy lifestyle. He's probably got 40+ years of good climbing left.
 
Just watched it. Had a visceral reaction for large parts - sweaty palms and an uneasy feeling in the pit of my stomach. I consider this must watch TV.
I know. You know he lives, but still. The most nerve-wracking part for me was after he got past the boulder problem and was almost there, but had to work around that angle before the final pitch. The camera angle showed just how mental the climb was. That was when one of the spotters on the ground was exclaiming how exposed he was at that part. Terrifying stuff.
 
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I know. You know he lives, but still. The most nerve-wracking part for me was after he got past the boulder problem and was almost there, but had to work around that angle before the final pitch. The camera angle showed just how mental the climb was. That was when one of the spotters on the ground was exclaiming how exposed he was at that part. Terrifying stuff.


Four hours of being 100% TOTALLY focused physically and mentally.

And then after getting to the top, he and his friend are standing and hugging and talking just a step or two from the edge. I’m yelling at my tv MOVE BACK, PLEASE MOVE BACK!
 
Four hours of being 100% TOTALLY focused physically and mentally.

And then after getting to the top, he and his friend are standing and hugging and talking just a step or two from the edge. I’m yelling at my tv MOVE BACK, PLEASE MOVE BACK!
Hah! I was at Yosemite in May and went to Taft Point and the Fissures. If you haven’t been there, it’s incredibly exposed with only one, 10 foot long railing at the very point. Everywhere else along the jutting point and sides is nothing. I was like a cat approaching water - maybe my head leaning forward, but all my other weight about 8 feet back. I’m not really afraid of heights, but that place was spooky.
 
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Pretty good stuff here. Like his story of free soloing half dome, and getting stuck when he could hear the people above him at the top.

 
Pretty good stuff here. Like his story of free soloing half dome, and getting stuck when he could hear the people above him at the top.


thanks for posting that. It was an interesting video. Alex seemed more believable, and less of a odd ball, than he did in the Free Solo documentary.
 
Gotta believe you MUST be self absorbed to accomplish that feat. It has to take up all facets of your life or else you will never achieve it.
 
Have to admit, I've watched his final climb at least 10 times. Can't get enough. What's next for this guy?
 
I thought Alex cane off as a bit of a self absorbed jerk. I hope his girlfriend gets out of that relationship and finds a real man.
Interesting, I found him to be highly intelligent and very likable. He was honest with his girlfriend about who he was and his ability to get too close to people, especially intimate relationships.
 
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I wonder what happens to him when he gets too old to climb? What becomes his substitute thrill? Can someone with his inordinate ability transition into a more normal life?
Free solo climbers never get too old to climb.
 
This was a fun video seeing AH critique all those Hollywood movies involving free soloing. Very entertaining.

 
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You have a point, but to even get started with the simplest routes, you are really going to struggle if you have a lot of extra body weight to bring up a wall. I think most people that seriously get into it aren’t overweight to begin with. I’m sure there are some exceptions, but I think that is generally the rule.

A bunch of kids climb at the local gym, it’s incredible some of the routes they can do, mainly because they don’t have the body weight to pull up the wall

Exactly. I have the upper body strength of a physically fit 150 lb man. Unfortunately, I weigh 200 lbs.
 
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I used to climb a lot (not gym climbing) when I lived in Colorado. Some of the stuff that he described as realistic might be realistic for him but not for mere mortals. Some of that stuff I have never seen done and I used to see some of the best climbers in the world pretty frequently.
 
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