I want to put in a patio approximately 25 x 12 and need to decide between patio stone, poured concrete, and composite decking. I'm curious about the pros and cons as well as a price comparison (not specifically just most expensive to least expensive). Also, the yard tends to be a little wet/ swampy. Will the same contractor handle drainage issues typically? Thanks in advance!
OT:. Advice needed for backyard
- Thread starter mlvnsmly
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All concrete will eventually crack. If doing concrete consider a stamped pattern. If a crack happens, visually it is not as apparent.
Just got prices for a 28X15 patio including grass removal, excavation for 3" of rock base material, 5" thick broom finished rebar reinforced slab, and protection of grass with plywood - $4200 and $5200 for exposed aggregate finish. I didn't get a price for stamped concrete but it would have probably cost around 10k. The contractor I'm working with does do drainage projects.
The right way to do it is to pour concrete and then put down flagstone. A little more expensive but it will last.
Can you get up off the ground? No more drainage issue. Go composite.
Alternatively, no concrete. It will crack. That is a matter of time. "Even in San Diego" (where they have f'n earthquakes...I digress).
French drain and crushed stone/sand and pavers, slate, etc. if you must be at ground level.
Alternatively, no concrete. It will crack. That is a matter of time. "Even in San Diego" (where they have f'n earthquakes...I digress).
French drain and crushed stone/sand and pavers, slate, etc. if you must be at ground level.
^^this^^ also, in my observations, stamped concrete if stained will fade, whether mixed into the concrete or applied topically, not to mention being slippery when wet.
The sliding glass door is about 30" off the ground. Should I build a deck 30" high and put steps on the sides? And I won't have to pay some one to redo the drainage?
My opinion based mostly on esthetics is a pavers patio is best. I did my own somewhat larger than yours, and it cost me $3000-$3500, including substrate material. Of course, you'll pay labor. However, given your slider clearance, a "ground level" deck may be the most economic way to go. A negative to that is the impact of the moisture issue. I believe even a composite deck requires a pressure treated support structure. It could rot over time, albeit it might take 20-25 years. That happened to me.
Here's what I can share after doing 2 patios on 2 homes. First house - composite was prohibitively expensive for me at the time - was quoted $10k+ for a 10x12 deck with 1 step to the ground - went with wooden deck instead. Our neighbors had a composite deck that was on the southern facing side of the house and they said in the summer it was often too hot to touch railings etc, and that there was some warping.
2nd house we did a patio roughly the same size you're looking at (14x28), bunch of quotes between pavers and acid stained & stamped concrete. Decided to work with a well reviewed local landscape architect who did two flowerbeds and trees on either side of the patio and went with the concrete option. Total cost for that job was $10k. I'm sure it will crack at some point, just have to hope it cracks along the joints they scored in the pour and not in the middle of a slab. But even if it does the texture we have is varied to the point that it shouldn't be that noticeable.
2nd house we did a patio roughly the same size you're looking at (14x28), bunch of quotes between pavers and acid stained & stamped concrete. Decided to work with a well reviewed local landscape architect who did two flowerbeds and trees on either side of the patio and went with the concrete option. Total cost for that job was $10k. I'm sure it will crack at some point, just have to hope it cracks along the joints they scored in the pour and not in the middle of a slab. But even if it does the texture we have is varied to the point that it shouldn't be that noticeable.
Build your deck on these concrete deck blocks.
Use pressure treated for joists and stringers with composite decking.
Solves your drainage problem because you're off the ground. No wood in ground contact so it will last forever.
https://m.lowes.com/pd/Concrete-Dec...ccd0d2dbfdda&gclid=CL3r79Pfl9QCFdgVgQodo94MgA
Use pressure treated for joists and stringers with composite decking.
Solves your drainage problem because you're off the ground. No wood in ground contact so it will last forever.
https://m.lowes.com/pd/Concrete-Dec...ccd0d2dbfdda&gclid=CL3r79Pfl9QCFdgVgQodo94MgA
here ya go!! Some concrete, some wood, some flagstone, add in a nice view and you have it!!!
That firepit looks like it'll set off the wood in a stiff breeze. Other than that it looks amazing - true outdoor living space.
if you mean the wood on the deck, it is IPE, which has a fire rating the same as steel and concrete. (for the record, this is not my deck, check the web site for ideas)
I have the same "hot" issue on my balcony. It also gets pretty slippery when wet or at least mine does.
You could do any of the options that you mention, it's just a matter of doing them correctly. $$. If you do a slab, stamped or not, and you back yard is a little swampy, the contractor would want to dig deeper than usuall to give the slab a proper base. This would depend on how deep the soft earth goes. That of course costs more money, but you could do a slab that size, with a few joints cut in it, without the worry of cracking, if done correctly. If the water is more serious than I picture, you might have to do a dry well to get the water away.
If you would go with a deck. I would be absolutely sure that all of you support post aren't pressure treated wood directly into the ground. I would request to the contractor that you want sonotube down to below your frost line filled with concrete to 4"above finished ground level. They can then attach the support post to the top of the concrete with a bracket. Then you won't have to worry about post rot.
I just replaced my deck 3 years ago. The old deck was 10 years old. The pressure treated post that were originally installed were COMPLETELY rotted. I have a damp yard also. Off of my elevated wood deck, it's 5 steps down to a 12 ×22 concrete patio. 3 years old, no cracks. I have about 12" of different materials as a base under the concrete.
Hope this helps.
If you would go with a deck. I would be absolutely sure that all of you support post aren't pressure treated wood directly into the ground. I would request to the contractor that you want sonotube down to below your frost line filled with concrete to 4"above finished ground level. They can then attach the support post to the top of the concrete with a bracket. Then you won't have to worry about post rot.
I just replaced my deck 3 years ago. The old deck was 10 years old. The pressure treated post that were originally installed were COMPLETELY rotted. I have a damp yard also. Off of my elevated wood deck, it's 5 steps down to a 12 ×22 concrete patio. 3 years old, no cracks. I have about 12" of different materials as a base under the concrete.
Hope this helps.
The real point here is that slider is 30" off of the ground. Unless you want to tier the deck/patio to feel of it you need to raise it to within 7" of the floor inside. At that height a deck will likely be best but the railings may cost as much as the deck. Composite decking should be light in color to avoid the heat. That said just because it is a deck does not mean that you have to use wood or a composite. There is would look porcelain that is very strong but needs a very strong frame.
It just depends on where you want to spend your money. The on grade design is less expensive but you have to walk up and down steps. The art will be the design of the steps with planters or something of a similar nature.
It just depends on where you want to spend your money. The on grade design is less expensive but you have to walk up and down steps. The art will be the design of the steps with planters or something of a similar nature.
