Part III: Field Camp
We were conducting our field work in the Taylor Dry Valleys, primarily at Lake Bonney (
http://www.sas.rochester.edu/ees/RareGasLab/images/Lake Bonney-Taylor Glacier_enhanced.jpg ) As you can see from the photo, the Dry Valleys are characterized by mountains, glaciers, frozen lakes and most unusually (for Antarctica) a lack of snow/ice cover. The ground is covered by a very coarse, almost gravelly soil. The landscape appears almost Martian in nature, and it is strikingly beautiful.
To get there from McMurdo we’d travel by helo. There were two types of helos in service while I was there – old Hueys (like you see in Vietnam movies) and smaller French made Aerostars. The latter held 3 passengers, plus the pilot and a limited amount of gear. We primarily used the Aerostars to shuttle people and small amounts of gear (although they could carry a decent payload via sling load:
http://adam.antarcticanz.govt.nz/assets/display/83754-max I only rode in a Huey once and it was like riding in a really noisy bus (read: not nearly as fun as the small Aerostars).
At Lake Bonney there was a quasi-permanent field camp consisting of 2 small (10’ x10’) lab buildings and a Jamesway structure (recall the mess hall building in M*A*S*H…that’s a Jamesway). The buildings were heated to about 40F using gas heaters. The Jamesway was used primarily for cooking/eating meals and socializing. There was also a primitive latrine (not heated), but it was better than peeing in bottles. We slept in tents (more on that in a minute).
Most days we spent 8 to 10 hours a day working outside, collecting field samples. There were some days were part of the day might be spent in the lab, prepping samples or running experiments, but I was outside more often than not. We’d wake at 6 am, eat some breakfast and get started. Breaking for lunch around noon and dinner around six. While I was there, it was light for 24 hours a day, so daylight was not a limiting factor. Seeing the sun just make a circle around the horizon and never set is a very weird thing to observe. It’s also strange never to see stars, the moon or darkness for two months. Some people actually had their biological clocks really thrown off by the lack of darkness, but it didn’t bother me. I was able to stay on a normal schedule, mostly because I was very tired at the end of each day. The combination of our very physical field work and the nature of being outside at -40C is exhausting.
Since we are talking about being outside, I guess now is a good time to talk about the Extreme Cold Weather (ECW) gear.
On a typical field day I would wear:
Regular underwear (my own, not NSF issue)
Thin base layer thermal underwear
Thicker second layer thermal underwear (later in the season when things warmer up a bit, I might not wear these)
A thermal baselayer long sleeve undershirt
Fleece overalls
A Fleece jacket
A very thick parka with a hood (we also had a thinner “shell” jacket that I used some later in the season)
Wind pants/overalls
Balaclava (like a ski mask hat)
Hat
Goggles or sunglasses
Glove liners
Mittens
Wool socks
Bunny boots (
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe...unny_boots_in_Point_Lay,_Alaska,_Dec_2011.jpg )
One of the keys to being outside in cold weather is not sweating, so there were times when we’d be unzipping (or possibly even ditching) our parkas for short periods of time. The hardest thing was keeping my face and hands warm. Everything else was usually OK. Sometimes my feet would get cold if I was standing on the lake ice for long periods of time. A problem with my hands was that you can’t really do any work with mittens on, so you end up taking off one mitten to work in your glove liners, do as much work as you can until you can’t feel your fingers anymore, then put your mitten back on and switch to your other hand. We had chemical hand warmers which helped some, but it was a problem. I found that if I had my entire face covered my goggles or sunglasses would fog up, so I spent a lot of time with my nose exposed. I actually have permanent skin damage (basically a precursor to frostbite) on the bridge of my nose as a result. The only time I was really miserable while working is when the wind was really blowing. Antarctica is the windiest continent on Earth (also the highest, driest and coldest) so the wind chills ranged from “Wow, that wind sucks” to “OMFG kill me now.” We had a particularly bad wind storm one afternoon. The wind was picking up empty 55 gallon fuel drums and throwing them down the lake like Styrofoam cups. We nearly lost several tents. Fortunately, it only lasted an hour or so, but it really made a mess.
One of the really challenging things about working in the field is that you spend a lot of time just trying to exist. On a daily basis we had to: check fuel levels in the heaters and generators (refuel if necessary), check the tie-downs/anchors on all structures and tents, obtain drinking water (by chipping it out of the lake ice with an ice pick, then melting it), cook all meals, clean up after all meals, do twice daily radio check ins with McMurdo (at times we had a phone system that worked by bouncing signals between mountaintop transmitters, but it didn’t work all the time) and do any other random maintenance stuff that came up. And all of that is on top of a full day of science.
From time to time, we’d have other scientists that would pass through our camp. They would usually be there for a day or two to do something very specific and then would roll out. It was good to see new faces, as it helped to alleviate the boredom. I’ll address the boredom (and what we did to pass the time) more in a future post.
Occasionally, we would take a day trip (via helo) to another lake. Some of these (Lake Fryxell, Lake Hoare) also had quasi-permanent field camps and it was cool to meet the scientists that were there and learn about what they were doing. On one occasion, I got to go with two other scientists to a remote lake that very few people have ever been to. While I’m sure there were some places near Lake Bonney that I stood where no human had every stood before, when I was at this remote lake I was seeing something that probably only a couple dozen people have ever seen before. I found this to be exciting, humbling and awe inspiring.
One thing that was actually really good (and somewhat surprising to me) about field camp, was that the food was infinitely better than at McMurdo. McMurdo food was a small step up from military chow (maybe similar to PSU dining hall food?). Field teams could request whatever they wanted from the base stores. We had chicken, steak, shrimp, even lobster tails. All frozen obviously. But we got to cook for our little group (4-12 people) which made it much better than the mass produced stuff at base. One thing that I thought was cool about food supplies: at the field camp, we had an outdoor food storage area (freezer) and then a mudroom off the Jamesway that was our refrigerator. There are no insects or rodents to worry about, so you could just leave food out (it was obviously cold enough).
After a long work day, we’d have a satisfying dinner, followed by a couple of adult beverages (many of our team were fans of Wild Turkey; I usually stuck to beer from New Zealand, but would occasionally drink tequila). We talk and share stories until 10 pm or so, then people would either start prepping for sleep, or would read for a bit before retiring.
In retrospect it probably would have been better thermodynamically to sleep two to a tent, but we also valued some privacy, so we each had a tent to ourselves. While the sleeping bags we had were rated for very low temperatures, I had issues because the standard size bag was not long enough (I’m 6’5), so I could not zip the mummy bag all the way up. This didn’t help with warmth while sleeping. Usually before bed I would boil some water to put in my drinking water bottle (1 liter) to act as a hot water bottle. That usually got me through until my body heat warmed the tent to not horrible levels. I’d usually lose my outer layer, but still sleep in a lot of clothing. The one thing you absolutely did not want to have to do was leave your tent in the middle of the night to visit the latrine. While this was only a five minute walk, you would lose all of the heat you had built up in your tent. I had no issue using my “P” bottle to whizz in the privacy of my tent (another reason to have a tent to yourself), but I had one evening where everyone (including myself) had consumed more alcohol than normal where I was worried that I was going to “over fill” my 1 L “P” bottle. It’s quite the moment of panic when you are trying to figure out which muscle(s) you need to use to stop peeing mid stream.
I have one more post I’d like to write (about the interesting social life on the base), but probably won’t get to that until Sunday as I have a lot going on tomorrow.