I personally would not surf like that either...but everyone has to do in life what they are comfortable doing. I also would never ride a motorcycle as I have seen too many people killed on them. One of my buds who did live after a wreck has had over 50 surgeries. Life is all about making decisions every day that could impact your life. I don't do certain things that I don't feel are worth the risk and motorcycles and surfing are two of those things. I also get while others do.below?
https://www.foxnews.com/us/californ...-state-beach-surfer-killed-state-beach-closed
https://people.com/human-interest/surfer-killed-shark-attack-california-beach/
How F*cking stupid can you be??
Truely, the possibility of this happening was very real and the guy brought it upon himself.
Stupidity folks!
I do other things that other people think are crazy but I enjoy them.