OT: Overseeding a New Lawn

[TheWizardofCamelot]

I just moved my family into a new construction home at the end of June in WPA. The builder provided an initial landscaping package which included lawn installation- a hydroseed/Penn state seed mix.

In 7 weeks, the lawn has come in well but with expected areas needing work. There are areas of the lawn that see sun most of the day which have gotten a bit dried out, regardless of my regular watering patterns.

I’m planning on overseeding this September in hopes of filling out the grass a bit more, with the possibility of doing it again in the spring. With overseeding as the plan for next month, I have handful of questions that are confusing me with all the opinions online:

Do I need to aerate, or is it too young of a lawn to do to?

Best topsoil/manure to add to the surface? Mushroom manure seems to be what most lawn and garden services recommend. The topsoil surrounding the house isn’t the best, as is most of the soil surrounding the new neighborhood.

Any ideas and help are appreciated, I’m hoping some PSU alumni could drop some knowledge. Here’s to hoping I’m doing this project on a Sunday with the team looking at an early 3-0 or 4-0 record. Thanks all.

 

[Woodpecker]

My Lawn Is Crap
Here Goes
Question for Turfgrass Majors
Landscapers Grass Seed Mix

 

[psu7113]

I just moved my family into a new construction home at the end of June in WPA. The builder provided an initial landscaping package which included lawn installation- a hydroseed/Penn state seed mix.

In 7 weeks, the lawn has come in well but with expected areas needing work. There are areas of the lawn that see sun most of the day which have gotten a bit dried out, regardless of my regular watering patterns.

I’m planning on overseeding this September in hopes of filling out the grass a bit more, with the possibility of doing it again in the spring. With overseeding as the plan for next month, I have handful of questions that are confusing me with all the opinions online:

Do I need to aerate, or is it too young of a lawn to do to?

Best topsoil/manure to add to the surface? Mushroom manure seems to be what most lawn and garden services recommend. The topsoil surrounding the house isn’t the best, as is most of the soil surrounding the new neighborhood.

Any ideas and help are appreciated, I’m hoping some PSU alumni could drop some knowledge. Here’s to hoping I’m doing this project on a Sunday with the team looking at an early 3-0 or 4-0 record. Thanks all

 

[BW Lion]

I just moved my family into a new construction home at the end of June in WPA. The builder provided an initial landscaping package which included lawn installation- a hydroseed/Penn state seed mix.

In 7 weeks, the lawn has come in well but with expected areas needing work. There are areas of the lawn that see sun most of the day which have gotten a bit dried out, regardless of my regular watering patterns.

I’m planning on overseeding this September in hopes of filling out the grass a bit more, with the possibility of doing it again in the spring. With overseeding as the plan for next month, I have handful of questions that are confusing me with all the opinions online:

Do I need to aerate, or is it too young of a lawn to do to?

Best topsoil/manure to add to the surface? Mushroom manure seems to be what most lawn and garden services recommend. The topsoil surrounding the house isn’t the best, as is most of the soil surrounding the new neighborhood.

Any ideas and help are appreciated, I’m hoping some PSU alumni could drop some knowledge. Here’s to hoping I’m doing this project on a Sunday with the team looking at an early 3-0 or 4-0 record. Thanks all.

1) I am a graduate of PSU, but not an agri-graduate. That said, for reasons I'd rather not go into, I have learned from experience that the PSU seed mix is the best for most PA lawns (it is high in Kentucky Blue Grass seeds; hence why it's more expensive than the mixes dominated by other faster-sprouting yet more fragile rye seeds).

2) Don't panic....most PA lawn varieties don't thrive under high heat and low rain. Unless you have an irrigation system, it's not unusual for full-sun spots in PA lawns to get dried out.

3) It's too early to aerate with a conventional aerator. They would be too rough on your nascent lawn. You can, however, treat the challenged areas with a less violent prong/probe and then lightly top cover with a seed-friendly topsoil before reseeding.

4) You should purchase an inexpensive ph-Meter and test your soil at various locations, especially the challenged ones. It might be a case that since your house is a new build, the soil has been subject to masonry contractors dumping out buckets of mortar / thinset or cleaning acids that will assuredly, but temporarily , alter the natural pH of your soil.

 

[Cincinnati Kid]

I just moved my family into a new construction home at the end of June in WPA. The builder provided an initial landscaping package which included lawn installation- a hydroseed/Penn state seed mix.

In 7 weeks, the lawn has come in well but with expected areas needing work. There are areas of the lawn that see sun most of the day which have gotten a bit dried out, regardless of my regular watering patterns.

I’m planning on overseeding this September in hopes of filling out the grass a bit more, with the possibility of doing it again in the spring. With overseeding as the plan for next month, I have handful of questions that are confusing me with all the opinions online:

Do I need to aerate, or is it too young of a lawn to do to?

Best topsoil/manure to add to the surface? Mushroom manure seems to be what most lawn and garden services recommend. The topsoil surrounding the house isn’t the best, as is most of the soil surrounding the new neighborhood.

Any ideas and help are appreciated, I’m hoping some PSU alumni could drop some knowledge. Here’s to hoping I’m doing this project on a Sunday with the team looking at an early 3-0 or 4-0 record. Thanks all.

If your lawn is relatively level, I would probably recommend slit seeding over attempting to aerate. You could actually do both both that’s a lot of work. It’s a good idea to perform a soil test.

What seed are you putting down? The same Penn State mix? I’m not sure what this is?

If you have some smaller problem areas, peat moss works exceptionally well. Finally, use a starter fertilizer and water.

Good luck!

 

[Cincinnati Kid]

1) I am a graduate of PSU, but not an agri-graduate. That said, for reasons I'd rather not go into, I have learned from experience that the PSU seed mix is the best for most PA lawns (it is high in Kentucky Blue Grass seeds; hence why it's more expensive than the mixes dominated by other faster-sprouting yet more fragile rye seeds).

2) Don't panic....most PA lawn varieties don't thrive under high heat and low rain. Unless you have an irrigation system, it's not unusual for full-sun spots in PA lawns to get dried out.

3) It's too early to aerate with a conventional aerator. They would be too rough on your nascent lawn. You can, however, treat the challenged areas with a less violent prong/probe and then lightly top cover with a seed-friendly topsoil before reseeding.

4) You should purchase an inexpensive ph-Meter and test your soil at various locations, especially the challenged ones. It might be a case that since your house is a new build, the soil has been subject to masonry contractors dumping out buckets of mortar / thinset or cleaning acids that will assuredly, but temporarily , alter the natural pH of your soil.

There are several varieties of KY Bluegrass. It is a beautiful grass; however, it has its limitations.

KY Bluegrass is not very drought tolerant. It creates a lot of thatch which leads to insects and disease. It also requires a bit more Nitrogen than say, tall fescue, which is more drought tolerant. We’ve been using 4th Millennium Tall Fescue here in the metro Cincinnati area with excellent results. It’s very highly rated for diseases like brown patch, it’s drought tolerant, and works well in sun and shade.

 

[Carl Spackler]

There are several varieties of KY Bluegrass. It is a beautiful grass; however, it has its limitations.

KY Bluegrass is not very drought tolerant. It creates a lot of thatch which leads to insects and disease. It also requires a bit more Nitrogen than say, tall fescue, which is more drought tolerant. We’ve been using 4th Millennium Tall Fescue here in the metro Cincinnati area with excellent results. It’s very highly rated for diseases like brown patch, it’s drought tolerant, and works well in sun and shade.

I agree w/ CincyKid. A good, newer variety of Tall Fescue works well. I mixed several blends for my wife's coworkers and they get raves from neighbors. Tall Fescue roots can reach several feet into the soil vs. inches for some other turfs. BUT, do not succumb to buy a seed named KY 31. It bunches up and has an objectionably wide leaf. It's very cheap but you will hate it.

I've used the improved tall fescues in Harrisburg on a new seeding, best lawn in the development, stayed green in a drought when all other lawns were dormant and brown. I've also had good luck with Perennial Ryegrass, improved varieties. They grow very fast vertically, are prone to red thread in June/July if not fertilized adequately, more than most people think is adequate.

Without really visiting your site it is difficult to give precise recommendations but there was some good info above this post and if you can keep the new seeding moist in the critical germination and early growth stage until you achieve rooting of 1.5 to 2 inches it should be good. Use a starter fertilizer (higher middle number on the label, phosphorus) and hit it with .75 to 1 pound of actual nitrogen in early Dec. when the turf is dormant, this will kick start spring growth to assist in out competing crabgrass, broad leaf weeds, etc. A tip I learned from a consultant years ago, he suggested ammonium sulfate (21-0-0). Good luck and let us know how things turn out next May or June.

 

[GregInPitt]

Good recommendations above.

But if you have areas that have soil showing through due to lack of initial growth and/or damage due to the heat of this summer, even in small areas, I would not hesitate to aerate those spots after reseeding, just to get some soil loosened up and covering the seed. If somewhat bare areas are minimal you could just loosen the soil by hand in those areas. I would also hand spot in some mushroom manure over the seed, using more seed in the more bare areas.

I would not begin the overseeding until the end of the summer heat, mid Sept. at the earliest. At that point there is still plenty of sunlight but less direct sun that dries out the turf & seed........

 

[MargarettConnors]

Hey, thanks for sharing about Andrew Roy Lawn Mowing Company! Speaking of lawn care, I recently discovered the joy of planting creeping thyme in my garden. It not only adds a pop of color and fragrance but also acts as a natural ground cover, reducing the need for constant mowing. Plus, the bees and butterflies absolutely adore it!

 

[Nittany1997]

I would just put sod down.

 

[The Spin Meister]

Hey, thanks for sharing about Andrew Roy Lawn Mowing Company! Speaking of lawn care, I recently discovered the joy of planting creeping thyme in my garden.

Wow, a new bot. Been awhile since one struck.

 

[voltz99]

My grass looks good but the lawn has a lot of bumps. Any suggestions for that problem?

 

[The Spin Meister]

My grass looks good but the lawn has a lot of bumps. Any suggestions for that problem?

Roll it with a heavy roller in the spring when ground is soft. Started doing so about ten years ago and looks much better and easier to walk across

 

[Obliviax]

Roll it with a heavy roller in the spring when ground is soft. Started doing so about ten years ago and looks much better and easier to walk across

Yep...and if holes are larger (typically due to a dig or roots rotting from and old tree that was removed) you can throw a few shovels full of top soil into the depression and then rake up some of the grass to poke through. may need to throw some seed in there if it is too large. Cut the grass a couple of times a week so that it grows out (spreads) instead of using the energy to grow up.

 

[Sullivan]

My grass looks good but the lawn has a lot of bumps. Any suggestions for that problem?

If the bumps are big, use a rototiller and rake to smooth it out.

 

[LongJakk]

Full sun? Go with tall fescue. Most of the mixes are dominated by fine leaf grasses that won't last.

 

[The Spin Meister]

I always thought rolling a lawn was a bad thing to do. It would cause soil compaction and rainwater would run off instead of being absorbed by the soil.

One year my lawn had so many clumps in it I couldn’t walk across it with tripping over a clump. So I decided to roll it and when I was finished I was surprised over how much better it looked.

Now I roll it every spring before the first cut while the ground is still soft. Then I go over it with a plug aerator to avoid compaction and allow rain water and nutrients to penetrate. Works great.

 

[voltz99]

If the bumps are big, use a rototiller and rake to smooth it out.

Nothing big. It is like little ruts. I feel like I might break an ankle every time I mow.

 

[GregInPitt]

One other consideration. After over seeding, when watering and as seed begins to grow, cut grass on a decently high setting.

I had to have my neighbor across the street's lawn dug up last winter to repair my sewer line (bursted a new line liner under the street and repair tap into sewer line in his yard). When the initial seedin was done I had the landscaper pay particular attention to my neighbors lawn (more top soil, mushroom manure, and seed), but the guy cutting his grass every week continued to cut it short going into the summer and it came in pretty sorry. I believe partly because he didn't water enough, and also because he cut it too short as his lawn is in direct sun light.

When I later had my yard regraded and reseeded I again had them over seed my neighbor's lawn. Mine came in great as I cut it high and watered. My neighbors again did not come in much better. Just can't cut a new lawn low as the part in direct sun gets dried out and the young grass may not survive.

 

[Obliviax]

One other consideration. After over seeding, when watering and as seed begins to grow, cut grass on a decently high setting.

I had to have my neighbor across the street's lawn dug up last winter to repair my sewer line (bursted a new line liner under the street and repair tap into sewer line in his yard). When the initial seedin was done I had the landscaper pay particular attention to my neighbors lawn (more top soil, mushroom manure, and seed), but the guy cutting his grass every week continued to cut it short going into the summer and it came in pretty sorry. I believe partly because he didn't water enough, and also because he cut it too short as his lawn is in direct sun light.

When I later had my yard regraded and reseeded I again had them over seed my neighbor's lawn. Mine came in great as I cut it high and watered. My neighbors again did not come in much better. Just can't cut a new lawn low as the part in direct sun gets dried out and the young grass may not survive.

Right. This time of year, I cut around twice a week. But I always leave about three inches. Cutting it high is not a problem, in fact Kris it really been green. The only issue is if kids play soccer or something on it

 

[Lesgo_Brandon]

Do we like to bag when we mow? I did when we bought our home full of crabgrass, but stopped after winning that war. Now I just let the clippings provide a layer of protection from the hot summers here. It was the recommendation of some old guy with a great lawn that's been working nicely.

 

[Obliviax]

Do we like to bag when we mow? I did when we bought our home full of crabgrass, but stopped after winning that war. Now I just let the clippings provide a layer of protection from the hot summers here. It was the recommendation of some old guy with a great lawn that's been working nicely.

Mulch.

To me, I'd much rather mow the grass twice as often then have to bag.

 

[The Spin Meister]

Do we like to bag when we mow? I did when we bought our home full of crabgrass, but stopped after winning that war. Now I just let the clippings provide a layer of protection from the hot summers here. It was the recommendation of some old guy with a great lawn that's been working nicely.

Only bag if I get two weeks of rain and grass is really high. Which is rare.

The clippings are great fertilizer. Raises organic content of soil. Helps retain moisture.

 

[91Joe95]

Only bag if I get two weeks of rain and grass is really high. Which is rare.

The clippings are great fertilizer. Raises organic content of soil. Helps retain moisture.

Mulch, mulch, mulch. If I get clumps I mow again after a couple of days to disperse it.

 

[The Spin Meister]

Mulch, mulch, mulch. If I get clumps I mow again after a couple of days to disperse it.

If I have to bag it the clippings get used as mulch in my organic garden. My neighbor always bags everything and I use his clippings too.

 

[Obliviax]

If I have to bag it the clippings get used as mulch in my organic garden. My neighbor always bags everything and I use his clippings too.

to your point on bagging when it is heavy, it is easier for me to cut it twice. I cut it day one, and then cut it again the day after. But if you use it for mulch, that is a different story.