My lawn is crap!

[Ranger Dan]

I really enjoy my lawn and have the nicest one in the neighbourhood. In fact, all of my neighbours have adopted my methods and they all look great. I grew up on a farm and cutting the grass is somehow therapeutic. I actually cut three lawns in my 'hood. here is my easy and simple method:

• VERY early fertilization, like first nice day of march. rake out leaves stuck in small dead spots.
• Lawn service after that (the stuff you buy doesn't kill the weeds, I've found)
• Cut the lawn down low, early in the season, low enough to not scald the grass
• Cut it twice a week so that you aren't trimming more than an inch. This time of year, the grass wants to grow, if it can't grow up it will grow out. Meaning, it will thicken and create a stronger root base. This is much needed in the hot summer months.
• This time of year, the ground is cold and air warm(er). Grass will want to grow green but you want a root base and thickness. In the fall, the opposite will happen, which is good (roots will grow but you'll get less green). This is prep time for winter. Fertilize with store bought after the first snow has melted.
• do not pick up the grass, mulch it
• in the summer, cut it longer. maybe once a week or less.
• Water it every other day unless it rains. Best to have a sensor that waters when the base is dry. But you almost cannot over water in July and August as it is so hot and dry.
• enjoy

I like a lot of your list. Watering that much is environmentally irresponsible in my opinion, and I can’t afford a sprinkler system.

 

[Obliviax]

I like a lot of your list. Watering that much is environmentally irresponsible in my opinion, and I can’t afford a sprinkler system.

I don't know where you live, Ranger, but I live on lake Erie. The water level is almost a yard above average and has broken all records for the last 1.5 years. Plus, it rains...a lot. If you live in the SW, I understand. Other than that, I don't agree with the environmental impact.

 

[step.eng69]

, but I live on lake Erie.

Along the Shore line or house boat?

 

[Obliviax]

Along the Shore line or house boat?

55 foot back yard, 55 foot cliff, 55 miles of water

 

[mdking001]

Everyone commented on what I do.. low cost fert couple times year aerate cut low in spring every 4-5 days etc. this year due to the virus I researched and started digging up the big ones by hand. Slowly pull to ensure you get the roots. Some dandies can be 6 inches or more. Then fill with top soil. Been doing that for 3 weeks. It’s therapeutic and it’s working great. I may not have to treat again if I keep it up. Thankfully all neighbors take care of theirs so little seeding blows my way. Two neighbors started doing what I now do and have thanked me. It’s also a nice workout and a way to talk to strangers in the hood during these isolation times.

 

[The Spin Meister]

Everyone commented on what I do.. low cost fert couple times year aerate cut low in spring every 4-5 days etc. this year due to the virus I researched and started digging up the big ones by hand. Slowly pull to ensure you get the roots. Some dandies can be 6 inches or more. Then fill with top soil. Been doing that for 3 weeks. It’s therapeutic and it’s working great. I may not have to treat again if I keep it up. Thankfully all neighbors take care of theirs so little seeding blows my way. Two neighbors started doing what I now do and have thanked me. It’s also a nice workout and a way to talk to strangers in the hood during these isolation times.

All good except for cutting it short. Most people cut it short as they like the look. Experts say to leave it 3-3.5" after cutting and never cut off more than 1/3 at a time. So that means cut it when it is about 4.5" high. In spring that could be twice a week.

Long grass is better because it shades out weedlings as they germinate. Shading the soil also keeps the moisture in the ground, protects from drying wind and sun.

If you keep it cut to one inch, you would have to cut every other day to take off only a third.

 

[step.eng69]

55 foot back yard, 55 foot cliff, 55 miles of water

The cliff over looking the lake has got to be great, in all of the seasons.

 

[The Spin Meister]

55 foot back yard, 55 foot cliff, 55 miles of water

Nice view of Cleveland in the distance.

 

[Obliviax]

The cliff over looking the lake has got to be great, in all of the seasons.

this time of year is awesome. since the leaves aren't out yet but the wildlife is preparing to mate, the eagles are out fishing. Yesterday, a baldie swooped down and picked up a small fish while a dozen birds followed him (chasing him off? hoping he drops the fish? IDK). The lake is different everyday. Its been windy so big waves and brownish today. On others, calmer times, it will be as blue as the Caribbean. the downside is that I spent most of the weekend fixing my back yard; screens and yard. I'll get out the lawn furniture this coming weekend. Screw the virus!

 

[cigarowl]

When we bought our current house 9 years ago, the lawn wasn’t great. We had a company do fertilizer and weed killer treatments for a few years, which helped, but we stopped because of budgetary concerns. Now our lawn is a mess, with just about every type of weed you could think of. We could probably afford to resume the treatments, but am wondering whether it’s an uphill battle that we’ll never win. Can we gradually overcome the weeds with treatments and overseeing? The other options are to accept the weeds and a complete replacement of the lawn.

Anyone have a similar situation?

Is that you Fat "Bastard" ?

 

[Cincinnati Kid]

I like a lot of your list. Watering that much is environmentally irresponsible in my opinion, and I can’t afford a sprinkler system.

Generally speaking, a lawn needs about one inch of water/week in the summer. It’s better to water once or twice a week to achieve this vs every other day.

For all your fertilizer and weed killer needs, I would check to see if there is a Site One Landscaping store near you. They used be be called Lesco, then John Deere Landscaping. They sell good products at very reasonable prices. In fact, a lot of lawn care companies buy from them.

 

[step.eng69]

Generally speaking, a lawn needs about one inch of water/week in the summe

YIKES, that's about 27, 000 Gallons of water a week per acre or about 113 tons. Hope you're not watering your lawn by the bucket.
0.0833 x 43,560 x 7.481 = gal per acre

 

[jim cummings]

That's pretty much my regimen as well. I have 3.3 acres that was pasture land before my house was built. Really crappy lawn for the first couple of years until I contracted with LiquaGrow (southern PA and MD). I've been with them for more than a decade and I get praise from neighbors and locals all the time. I cut at 3.5" with a Toro Titan (definitely keep the blades sharp) and it looks awesome.

Are you the owner of 84 Lumber? Their property looks identical.

 

[Ranger Dan]

]

Is that you Fat "Bastard" ?

I'm told that this was a joke. Can you explain the joke to me, please?

 

[YeOldeCup]

Are you the owner of 84 Lumber? Their property looks identical.

Well, we do have an 84 Lumber here in Mount Airy (MD), but it's about 7 miles from me...

(and no, I'm not the owner)

 

[cigarowl]

]

I'm told that this was a joke. Can you explain the joke to me, please?

Yes, as Tom explained to you it was a reference to a line spoken by Fat Bastard in an Austin Powers movie. MY "LIFE" IS CRAP. Also I am not the person who comes out of the woodwork once a year to take a swipe at you. I don"t even think I ever responded to one of your posts.

 

[Ranger Dan]

Yes, as Tom explained to you it was a reference to a line spoken by Fat Bastard in an Austin Powers movie. MY "LIFE" IS CRAP. Also I am not the person who comes out of the woodwork once a year to take a swipe at you. I don"t even think I ever responded to one of your posts.

Ok, sorry for making a big deal about it. When you are fat, and a bastard, you can get sensitive about certain things.

 

[Sproul]

goats

one of my neighbors rented goats and they lived in his lawn for about a month. He ripped up the entire lawn anyway and planted terraced gardens.

lawns are such a waste though. Throwing all that money for chemicals onto a plant that does nothing. I guess we’re just glad that we live in an area where we don’t have dick measuring contests over our lawns like we’re hank hill

 

[The Spin Meister]

Ok, sorry for making a big deal about it. When you are fat, and a bastard, you can get sensitive about certain things.

Your other thread is closed for comment so, in the defense of RD, by starting that thread he got this cleared up and all is well in McAndrew World.

Oh, the other worlds should work so well.

 

[GregInPitt]

My lawn is not good due to too much rock and clay. I have had True Green fertilizing it for four years. It’s better now but not great. I will keep using them, but I think I will always have an average lawn.

There are things you can do to improve your soil. One thing is to aerate and then fill the ground holes with sand or some other materials that over time break down and mix with the rock and clay to improve drainage and ability to support healthy grass. Have you asked TruGreen what a cost effective plan they would suggest?

 

[AWS1022]

There are things you can do to improve your soil. One thing is to aerate and then fill the ground holes with sand or some other materials that over time break down and mix with the rock and clay to improve drainage and ability to support healthy grass. Have you asked TruGreen what a cost effective plan they would suggest?

They’ve done a bunch of that stuff...again, it’s better but not great.

 

[PSU20]

whe

This is a misconception. There will always be weed seeds invading your lawn. The idea is to make your grass flourish and fend off the invading weeds.

When those seeds from the weeds blow onto your lawn from the perimeter or you next door neighbors lawn, you are going to get weeds, period.

 

[PSU20]

It starts slowly. You might not even notice it at first. But before you know it, you're dealing with a full-scale invasion. That's right - your neighbor's weeds can quickly become your weeds if you're not careful. Don't fret. Grass Master has a few tips for keeping your lawn weed-free even if your neighbors aren't quite as vigilant.

 

[PSUfiji]

In addition to a lot of good information already supplied in this thread, I suggest using Medina Ag Product's Soil Activator & Liquid Humic Acid along with springtime core aeration.

 

[sluggo72]

There are things you can do to improve your soil. One thing is to aerate and then fill the ground holes with sand or some other materials that over time break down and mix with the rock and clay to improve drainage and ability to support healthy grass. Have you asked TruGreen what a cost effective plan they would suggest?

10-1 every town has a guy or 2 that once worked for TruGreen and now has his own service, which is probably half the cost. Thats what I did, I found a local guy that went out on his own (actually he found me). Gave me a good price, and we only do 4 or 5 treatments a year. It seems to help a lot. I tried doing it one time, and got it half messed up, plus the equipment etc.

 

[Cincinnati Kid]

whe


When those seeds from the weeds blow onto your lawn from the perimeter or you next door neighbors lawn, you are going to get weeds, period.

Ive done my own lawn care for over 29 years. I guess it’s a hobby for me. One suggestion for weed control is to apply a pre-emergent in the fall in late Sept or very early Oct depending on where you live. Barricade or Dimension provide excellent prevention of winter seed germination and good weed control in the spring, especially for annual bluegrass and chickweed.

 

[androcles]

...my lawn looks good but I still haven’t found a satisfactory treatment for ground ivy...
... my solution has been to just take a fork, kneel down and remove it “by hand”...
...as age advances that has become a somewhat painful option...
...looking for a viable application that has not been banned ...

 

[Ranger Dan]

whe


When those seeds from the weeds blow onto your lawn from the perimeter or you next door neighbors lawn, you are going to get weeds, period.

My point is the the best defense against weeds is a strong offense for encouraging grass to grow. It matter little what your neighbor does.

 

[GregInPitt]

10-1 every town has a guy or 2 that once worked for TruGreen and now has his own service, which is probably half the cost. Thats what I did, I found a local guy that went out on his own (actually he found me). Gave me a good price, and we only do 4 or 5 treatments a year. It seems to help a lot. I tried doing it one time, and got it half messed up, plus the equipment etc.

I got lucky with TruGreen. When they quoted a price for my yard somehow they came up with 3000 ft2. I believe they use software that calculates size from satellite google views. But in reality the grass portion of my lot is about 30,000 ft2..... They re-up me every year for the same price for 6 or 7 treatments......

Actually they were going to raise my price this year by about 10 percent. But I called them and told them I had built a new garage as well as a driveway expansion that will amount to about 2000 ft2 so they game me a price less than last year.

Their agents really do everything they can to keep customers, so if you believe you are paying too much just call them and "negotiate"....

 

[The Spin Meister]

whe


When those seeds from the weeds blow onto your lawn from the perimeter or you next door neighbors lawn, you are going to get weeds, period.

Having a strong healthy and thick turf helps cut down weeds. Thick is the key as it chokes out seedlings as they germinate.

 

[NewEra 2014]

I really enjoy my lawn and have the nicest one in the neighbourhood. In fact, all of my neighbours have adopted my methods and they all look great. I grew up on a farm and cutting the grass is somehow therapeutic. I actually cut three lawns in my 'hood. here is my easy and simple method:

• VERY early fertilization, like first nice day of march. rake out leaves stuck in small dead spots.
• Lawn service after that (the stuff you buy doesn't kill the weeds, I've found)
• Cut the lawn down low, early in the season, low enough to not scald the grass
• Cut it twice a week so that you aren't trimming more than an inch. This time of year, the grass wants to grow, if it can't grow up it will grow out. Meaning, it will thicken and create a stronger root base. This is much needed in the hot summer months.
• This time of year, the ground is cold and air warm(er). Grass will want to grow green but you want a root base and thickness. In the fall, the opposite will happen, which is good (roots will grow but you'll get less green). This is prep time for winter. Fertilize with store bought after the first snow has melted.
• do not pick up the grass, mulch it
• in the summer, cut it longer. maybe once a week or less.
• Water it every other day unless it rains. Best to have a sensor that waters when the base is dry. But you almost cannot over water in July and August as it is so hot and dry.
• enjoy

Good stuff, Obli. This is very similar to my DIY lawn care regimen that I figured out by trial and error over the years. I only water once every 3 days, though. I also water right after the sun goes down. In addition, I have had good luck using an iron-rich treatment once or twice before a rainstorm in the summer to keep the lawn green. I end up putting fertilizer, winterizer, or iron on the lawn once every 6 to 8 weeks throughout the year.

 

[KnightWhoSaysNit]

Unless you're dealing with a golf course or feeding cattle, grass is an incredible waste of capital that people will soon learn they cannot afford. Better for the earth to plant trees and shrubs that are tolerant to the natural rainfall and forms of fertilization. Otherwise plant gardens and cover broad areas with gravel.

I live in a retirement community where most people want low maintenance. This is what we do (during the best of times), even though we get plenty of rain.

If you read the Test Board I've been making some arguments lately regarding why we cannot continue with the suburbia model, i.e., large homes surrounded by lawns. This is not a realistic long term model for living. If you can change now before the coming crisis, I would do it. Unfortunately, right now there are not many good choices for people.

 

[Carl Spackler]

A good resource for home lawn care is: domyown@newsletter.domyown.com They have reasonable pricing on most products and some good instructional articles. Our "good lawn" is three acres and we mow another four acris. I just sprayed the entire property on Monday with a Three way broadleaf herbicide that included 2,4 D / Dicamba / MCPP. This is the old traditional broadleaf week herbicide. As in the mix as a pre emergent herbicide, Prodiamine which goes by several generic hames and is cheap for the control of crabgrass, goosegrass and several other grassy and a few broadleaf weeds, if applied and washed into the top layer of soil prior to any weed seed germination. As of this morning I can see dandelion, clover, chickweed, etc. all twisting (epinasty) revealing a good spray coverage and potential kill, time will tell. The pre emergent has always worked well as it's easy to see where you missed a strip as crabgrass is adept at finding the missed areas. We have a 44 gal. tow behind sprayer as hiring a lawn care company is prohibitive for the size of our "good" lawn and impossible for the entire property. I use Greenleaf, asymmetrical coverage nozzles which have a coverage pattern far better than I have ever witnessed in over 40 years of golf course management or lawn care. This is why I am seeing such a good beginning to the broadleaf weed demise. We live in a rural area surrounded by homeowners and farmers who don't every treat their lawns. I never water our lawn and always mow at 3 inches or higher in the spring to assist the turf developing the root system for the summer months. Cutting the lawn short also shortens the root system and available water for the summer season as the shorter roots can't reach the deeper soil levels to access moisture stored there. Sometimes the lawn doesn't look great in the summer but I always receive compliments on it no matter the season. If anyone is planning to seed their lawn, start over that is, consider using an improved variety of Tall Fescue but not, never KY-31 Tall Fescue. I've used improved Tall Fescue varities several places with great results as their roots reach a depth of a foot or better accessing the moisture to get through droughty summer months and appear green as if watered, while you don't have to water!!! Get a soil test prior to starting over or even it you are trying to keep what you have. It's vital to apply correct amounts of what your soil requires, not what they store may be selling. You will likely have to visit a farm supplier or larger turf supplier. The link above does sell some fertilizer as I remember. I'd apply in late May after the spring rush of growth dissipates so there is food for the summer season. Then again in early fall and if you want to come out green in the spring, apply a late application of fertilizer, say Thanksgiving or a bit earlier, after killing frost stunts growth and the turf is going dormant. Good luck, it takes some work, if you don't enjoy the work, hire it out, don't skip it or things will deteriorate and you'll be back in the dumps again.

 

[Nashville Lion]

When we bought our current house 9 years ago, the lawn wasn’t great. We had a company do fertilizer and weed killer treatments for a few years, which helped, but we stopped because of budgetary concerns. Now our lawn is a mess, with just about every type of weed you could think of. We could probably afford to resume the treatments, but am wondering whether it’s an uphill battle that we’ll never win. Can we gradually overcome the weeds with treatments and overseeing? The other options are to accept the weeds and a complete replacement of the lawn.

Anyone have a similar situation?

So every fall I pay a few hundred dollars to have a company come in and aerate and overseed. That is the best thing I ever did and continue to do. My yard was a freaking mess...and now like a golf course. I also treat my yard personally about 6 times a year. In early spring I will apply lime to the grass. About a month later I will apply a pre-emergent herbicide. I will then fertilize. I am not sure what type of grass you have but a big thing too in the fall is to make sure you don't let leaves sit on your lawn. I remove them promptly...leaves sitting on the grass will kill it.

 

[m.knox]

My family never did a thing to the lawn other than mow it. Our next door neighbor spent hours per week every spring getting his into tip-top shape. Come July, their lawn would be brown and burnt out while our weeds would be green and thriving. I say just leave it be.

Yeah, if you don't have a sprinkler system, July makes it tough. Real tough. Definitely do not want to fertilize anywhere near July if you don't water...

As for the OP, hit it with Weed Be Gone once the weather warms a little.... One bottle of concentrate covers 8000 sq ft. If I do the whole yard, it's 4 bottles. That will kill a bunch of weeds. Concurrently, get some fertilizer on it to get the grass to cover. But do that by mid June because as Connorpozlee notes, July can put a world of hurt on you... unless you water.

 

[jim cummings]

Generally speaking, a lawn needs about one inch of water/week in the summer. It’s better to water once or twice a week to achieve this vs every other day.

For all your fertilizer and weed killer needs, I would check to see if there is a Site One Landscaping store near you. They used be be called Lesco, then John Deere Landscaping. They sell good products at very reasonable prices. In fact, a lot of lawn care companies buy from them.

You have to be a licensed applicator to be able to buy there.